NEW AND OLD FRIENDS

New friends

In two days, we'll officially have lived here an entire year! That's really exciting for me considering all we've been through.  There have been times here when we thought we'd give up, but the friends we've made along the way have really encouraged us to stick it out. These friends have become life-lines to us and we have deep affection for all of them.

Next week, my childhood friend Seth comes to visit. I'm really excited to have someone from my hometown come see our new life here. I wonder what he'll think when we tell him we don't have hot water showers, or that we walk in 100 degree heat everywhere, or that his chances of getting some kind of "issue" that will make him puke is near 90%. Seth will be here a week from today. We can hardly wait!!

BACK FROM VACATIONS

Our cabin, #8 right by the pool. It was nice, but had a bat in it!

Flor de Canela Resort. Puyo, Ecuador

As you know, Joe went on a rafting mancation deep in the jungle more than seven hours away from Tena. When he got back (bruised, bleeding, mosquito-bit and sunburnt), he Google earthed to show me where he had been: about half hour from the border of Peru and a 3 day hike from any close civilization. He had been gone four nights and five days without any creature comforts such as electricity, a toilet, a shower, real food, or Fantasy Football updates. Below, Joe outlines the highlights of his trip:

Me: "So, Joe, give us the ten biggest highlights of your trip".

Joe: "Uh...just ten?! Hmmmmm...".

1. Being launched out of the raft five feet into the air before splashing down and being sucked under the current close to a rock wall and then being trapped under the raft when I tried to resurface.
2. Seeing bats fly a foot from  my face during the day, wild parrots fly overhead, huge kingfishers, and an osprey.
3. Sharing sips of rum and coke out of an old gallon-size water bottle with  eleven other guys.
4. Drinking fermented chicha in a native Shuar indian's lean-to shack with his family.
5. Jumping out of the raft and free-riding a wave chain of 6ft waves without getting eaten by a boa constrictor.
6. Camping in a 400 ft tall canyon during a violent rainstorm that threatened to overflow the river and sweep us all away.
7. Camping under skies so clear, unpolluted, and dark I could see an astroid belt and cosmic dust as if I could reach out and touch it.
8. Laughing at Tim's mancation motto: "What happens in Las Vegas stays in Las Vegas" although we were worlds away from any kind of city at all.
9. Learning how to do an Eskimo roll in Pancho's kayak.
10. Being part of the documentary that the tour group was filming.

So there you have it: Joe's top ten.  I'm just glad he survived it to tell the story.

Anyway, after seeing his great pictures and bandaging up his battle wounds, I packed up and left for my much-needed vacation. Joe was too tired to come with us and also had to work. So my friend and I took our kids to a resort in Puyo, a 2 hour bus ride away. It was nice, but I don't have ten highlights about it. I'm not sure I have three. Add to that, it was overpriced and the jacuzzis didn't even have water in them. The best part was when we turned off the lights in our cabin. A bat flew over our heads and in a matter of seconds, all four of us were in the same bed screaming each time we thought we heard flapping.

After a night in the 2 star resort, my friend and I parted ways. I wanted to continue our adventure in some cabins on the river Piatua in Santa Clara that I had heard about and she wanted to sleep in her own bed after the crazy night with Dracula we had just survived. In the end, I realize I should have just gone home with her. My "adventure" consisted of eating a liver and rice lunch at a roadside hut, wading in a river that I had to cross a swamp in my flip-flops to get to, hardly sleeping in a cabin full of jungle roaches that crawled on the walls above my head all night, and waiting an hour the next morning for the bus to hurry up and get us the heck out of there. Carlie wanted to go home too. She was freaked out by the large green parrots in the trees overhead that had listened to our conversations and memorized them. Soon we heard "Hola, Carlie. Hola!! Hola, Carlita, come on. Come here." That, and the fact that the owner had no breakfast to offer us, and we were ready to go home even if it meant by foot. Just FYI, so you can avoid our same miserable experience, it was called Finca Don Napo.

So now that we are back from vacations, we are back to normal jungle life. Life here is now just as routine as it ever was for me back in NC.  However, our friend from the States is visiting us in 2.5 weeks and we'll kind of be on vacation again. We'd like to take him to Papallacta and Banos. We'll see...

By the way, Tena has gotten a new restaurant. It's a Mexican place serving decent chimichangas and  awesome frozen lemon margaritas. Trust me, it's way more fun to eat there than to be on vacation.


 

SOMEWHERE OUT THERE

Pancho, Joe and Tim about to leave for the river trip
 

It's 12:30 am here in Tena. I doubt I'll be able to sleep tonight. One reason is that I have a pile mountain of clean laundry on the bed that should have been folded and put away yesterday. I've already scooted it to one side, then to the other, and tried to sleep next to it and on it, but it didn't work. However, the main reason I can't sleep is because my husband is not here and even if you threatened to take my chocolate bar that I have hidden in the back of my freezer, I could not tell you exactly where he is right now. How did this happen and why did I allow it?

 I can really only answer one of those questions since he is grown, and I can't "allow" or "not allow" him to do things he wants.
It happened because Joe is friends with Tim who works for/owns River People, Tena's oldest and most reliable river rafting outfitter whose office is located on 15 de Noviembre. Tim invited Joe and Pancho to come along with him on a tour he was taking a group of people from Quito on. At 1pm today the boys loaded up Tim's car while I watched, pretty much helplessly. Although I'm very excited for Joe, I can't help but feel a little bit worried for him. Ok, and maybe a bit of jealousy added in that mix. After all, this is not the regular rafting trips he does with Tim that's over in a few hours. No, this one will last three nights, three days and will involve camping in a cave among other cool shenanigans. To even get to where they are starting this trip involves a seven hour drive deeper into the jungle. As much as I love to camp, this would totally be the highlight of my life...if I was invited to tag along... which I wasn't. 

I let Joe borrow my pink Cannon camera. I know the boys are going to bully him mercilessly about the pink camera, but it's the only one we have and I begged him to take lots of pictures on all that I'm missing out on. I also think they will tease him about wearing his glasses and bringing his contact case and solution to the jungle trip. Real men travel blind. I also think they will question why he brought several types and sizes of swiss army knives that are too dull to cut ice-cream and are really only good for maybe picking at a hangnail. The saddest addition to his little travel knap-sack was his Teva sandals that literally have no soles. They tore clean off about four river trips ago. The way he just stood there as Tim and Pancho loaded up the boats, paddles, coolers, and supplies, I could tell Joe was even questioning himself why a boy who grew up in treeless, waterless Indiana was going on a three day class five jungle/rafting trip with broken shoes and a pink camera. I can't wait until he gets back so he can tell me all about it!
 

WHAT'S FOR DINNER?

No one ever said Tena, Ecuador was the culinary capital of the world. It's not even the culinary capital of Ecuador. Basically, if you live in Tena like I do, eating is strictly for survival.

 Long gone are the days where I linger over Sunday french-toast brunch at my favorite downtown restaurant in the States. Popping over to Whole Foods for a midday salad and protein shake is a thing of the past. Even something as simple as the hot apple pie from McDonald's is just a pie-pe dream. The closest McDonald's to me is five hours away by death-bus and their menu differs from the American version anyway.

So here in Tena, just like around the world, us families ask the age-old question "What's for dinner?" Here's how it usually goes for us: If I have food in the fridge I don't mind cooking. But keep in mind this is Tena. I don't have pre-cut, pre-washed, pre-pared, pre- anything. So my fridge, if I have food , usually looks like some kind of rabbit patch with all kinds of fruits and veggies. If I have the energy to wash, chop, and create, I may make soup or chicken and rice with a salad. If I don't have food in the fridge, I still have to do all the above PLUS  walk in 100 degree heat or pouring rain to the Super Tia (our local grocery store) and carry back all the bags. And as far as variety or international options at the grocery store? Picture your local Circle K.

So above, I've outlined what we usually do for meals here when we cook. But what do we do when the thought of cooking sounds about as fun as stepping in dog poop? We go out to eat, of course! Here's just a couple of our couple of options that I actually feel safe eating:
 Papa's a la Bruto. calle 15 de Noviembre, ($)- Serves up hot burgers, fries, milkshakes, and chicken sandwiches. Lately, the restaurant (more like a burger stall than a restaurant) hasn't been getting as much business, so they've cut down on menu options. Want a chicken sandwich? Yeah right. Want a cold beer? Forget about it.  If you want to people-watch while you eat a cheap burger that won't leave you in the emergency room after drowning in grease, this is the place to be.

Iguana. barrio Bella Vista Bajo. ($+)- Want food? Keep dreaming. Closed for remodeling until no further notice. When it was open, it was by far the coolest place in Tena for burgers, hot wings, chicken sandwiches and ice-cold Pilsener. The best part is that tourists have no idea about this gem. One word of advice: want nachos, the fourth item down on the menu? That was just a joke.

Lucy's. calle 12 de Febrero ($)- Want reheated left-overs from lunch? Come have Lucy serve you up some chicken and rice. Or pork-chop and rice. Or beef and rice. Sometimes her food is really good and hearty. Sometimes it's not. Either way, the restaurant is spotless.

The Pizzaria on the malecon ($$)- Below-average pizza by Papa John's standards served in a restaurant full of tourists, this is the best we got. When it's either burgers or typical chicken and rice, pizza is always a treasured option. My faves are the hawaiian and the tres colores. Popcorn and salsa are served as a free appetizer.

Cositas Ricas. calle 15 de Noviembre ($$)- A new higher-priced option here in Tena with cloth napkins and covered tables that I've only tried once. I recommend the chicken sandwich and fries. Portions are enough for two. Varied menu, meaning more than chicken or burgers on offer. Although the atmosphere is stuffy and has no view, the food gets high marks from our family and other friends who've tried it.

Although there are a few other dining options here in Tena, they are either not in my budget (Such as El Marquis or Chuquitos on the river) or I dare not eat there and risk getting trichinosis. I will highly recommend a local cevicheria (seafood joint) if you ask me, but we don't really eat there due to Joe being allergic to shrimp.

So there you have it, folks. Its what's for dinner. Burgers, pizza or chicken, your pick. If this was a blog entry about karoke bar options, it would be two more pages long.

THE LIFE LESSON LIST

    I know, shoot me! I haven’t kept up with this blog since the summer. It’s now October.  My friends back in the States are enjoying pumpkin spice lattes, bonfires, harvest moon porch parties, and wearing all their new fall line fashions. I’m still here in the jungle. It’s still 100 degrees each day and my wardrobe still  consists of tanktops, flip flops, and pony-tail holders. Life in the States goes on. Life here in the jungle seems to have stopped about a century ago. And because nothing ever happens, I have seemed to run out of inspiration. I’m going to have to dig deep, folks.

 One thing that has changed has been my schedule. I homeschool with another friend and her son on Mondays and Wednesdays. Lola, my home-help (I don’t dare say maid!), spends the night with us on Wednesdays so she doesn’t have to return to her house far in the jungle at night after her meetings. On Thursdays, we practice English and she cooks and cleans.  Friday nights and Saturday mornings are used for our Bible studies.  The other days, I either try to get some much-needed rest and do absolutely nothing, or I’m out in the preaching work for 6, 7, or 8+ hours on foot.  It’s a hot, dusty, muddy existence here and it’s become my new normal.  I think if we returned to the States now at this point, we’d feel incredibly out of place. 

In talking to my friend today, I realized I’m just a few weeks short of having lived here a whole year now. Here are some things I’d like to share that I’ve learned during this 2011/2012 year:

1.       Within the past year, we’ve moved 5 times. I’ve learned the art of packing. No, I’ve mastered it!

2.       Wear some bug-spray to help prevent dengue, but allow yourself to get enough bug bites that you build up bug immunity.

3.       Treat everyone with compassion. You have no idea what it took for them to face the day.

4.       Poor is being in debt. I have never met a poor person in Ecuador. Living in a one-bedroom shack on the river with your own chickens and garden  is freedom, not poverty.

5.       The variety of foods that Jehovah created was a gift I never truly appreciated until now.

6.       Humans were designed to overcome almost any physical or mental trial and depending on your inner strenghth, you can do so with joy.

7.       Someone always has it worse than you.

8.       Walking is the best way to stay in shape. Walking in the rain is the best way to feel alive. Walking with wet clothes is the best way to get a rash and pneumonia.

9.       Sleeping well with dirty feet is nearly impossible.

10.   Don’t go anywhere without your umbrella, or else it will rain.

11.   If you bring the large umbrella, it won’t rain. If you bring the mini-umbrella it will rain sideways.

12.   If it looks like it’s about to rain and you need to get home, you better hail a taxi now. Once it starts to rain, all the taxis will be taken.

13.   Never leave home without your own reusable grocery bags. If you do, you will be picking up your purchases off the dirt after the regular plastic grocery bag  has broken in half.

14.   Never buy your veggies at the grocery store. They cost more and they taste worse. Exceptions to this rule are lettuce and potatoes.  Don’t buy cheese anywhere. It’s just gross here in Ecuador.

15.   If someone, say a Bible student, offers you food  you eat it no matter how gross it looks. To refuse their food is the ultimate insult.

16.   Just because you never went to school doesn’t mean you are worthlessly stupid.

17.   A skill is MUCH more valueable than a degree.

18.    Reliance on Jehovah is MUCH more important than a skill or degree.

19.   My parents were right! You truly can do anything you set your mind to.

20.   My friends were wrong! I’m not as high-maintainence as they thought.

21.   Electricity is not a necessity…unless you work online like we do!

22.   You can always find water somewhere to at least wash your hands. You do not need 24/7 access to running water to survive. No, you don’t. I promise.

23.   Gas is way more important to me than electricity. Knowing  how to start a fire is more important than either.

24.   Taking daily cold showers  I’ve learned that not only do they suck, they also lower your immune system.

25.   I realized I haven’t had my hair even trimmed in a year and a half. Somehow I’ve survived this also.

26.   My desire to be beautiful will never cease just because I’m sweaty and dirty every day of my life now.

27.   Argue a point just to prove you are correct, and you may lose the respect of more than one person. Agree on a point even though you know they are wrong, and you may gain a loyal friend for life.

28.   Keep your bathroom floors and toilets spotlessly clean. You may end up with your face in or on it if you eat something disagreeable.

29.   Don’t complain about anything to anyone who’s lived here longer than you; they don’t really want to hear it.

30.   If you ask for advice, you better follow it or they will be offended.

31.   Trust your body, not a doctor. Sleep, eat, exercise and take medicine only if you feel like you should. After all, our health is our greatest treasure.

32.   A house is only a home if you have a couple of wild lizards in it that you call by name.

33.   True love involves helping that one to overcome his/her greatest fears.

34.   It’s hard as crap to learn a new language!

35.   Never expect a Latino to actually show up on time, be where they said they will be, or to do what they said they will do. Basically, yes, they are all liars. Deal with it or move back to the States.

36.   A true friend visits you when you are sick. A true friend lets you visit them when they are sick.

37.   Cleanliness is relative.

38.   Alcohol and high altitudes make me sick. Cheap alcohol in any altitude makes me sick.

39.   Owning a motorcycle is the fastest route to suicide. So is eating food from street vendors.

40.   If you want to have some real fun, dance with a Latino. If you want to get laughed at, dance for a Latino.

41.   It’s actually a good idea to have a few spider webs in your house, but not such a good idea to have a bee nest in your shower. (Personal experience)

42.   Greet everyone  you make eye contact with.

43.   If you greet your neighbors by name, you are less likely to be robbed.

44.   Spaniards were a horrible, oppressive  people and ruined the Ecuador of yesterday. Americans are a greedy and narrow-minded people that are ruining the Ecuador of today.

45.   Time truly does heal all wounds, at  least 90% of the way.

46.   Regret really wears you down after a while. Let it go.

47.   I’ve learned that the jungle provides everything you need for survival. I’d almost be afraid to leave it here, because I’ve discovered so many natural cures, foods, and teas.

48.   I realize we haven’t traumatized my daughter by moving here. We’ve given her a gift that will profoundly shape her life for the better no matter where she lives in the future.

49.   I’ve seen a whole new side of my husband, and I fell in love with that one too.

50.   Physically, I haven’t done as well as I thought I would here, but in every other way I’ve achieved way more than I thought possible. I’m so glad I tested my limits. I should have done this  17 years ago.

This is actually just a hint of all that I’ve learned over the past year about life, myself, and relationships.  And if I’ve learned this much in one year, imagine all that we’ll learn during forever. That’s going to be a much longer list.